Datsun 510 Buyer's Guide

The Datsun 510 was nicknamed the "poor man's BMW 2002" when it launched in 1968 — a label that captured both its underdog appeal and its genuine engineering merit. With independent rear suspension (a class-leading feature in 1968), the bulletproof L-series inline-four, and a chassis that responded brilliantly to performance modification, the 510 became the foundation of Brock Racing Enterprises' Trans-Am dominance in 1971-1972 and a perennial favorite of road racing enthusiasts. Today, clean original 510s have appreciated dramatically as the JDM collector market matures, and documented BRE-spec cars represent some of the most concentrated value in the vintage import market.

Overview

The Datsun 510 launched in 1968 as Nissan's challenger to the European compact sport sedan segment, and the engineering that went into the car has aged remarkably well. Independent rear suspension (rare in mass-market sedans of the era), the bulletproof L-series inline-four, and a chassis that responded brilliantly to performance modification combined to create a giant-killer reputation that still defines the 510 in collector circles today. Approached this with an engineer's eye, the 510 represents one of the most fully-developed mass-market sport sedans of the late 1960s — and BRE's Trans-Am dominance in 1971-1972 cemented its racing credibility on the world stage.

Generations Worth Knowing

Early 510 (1968-1970)

The launch era. The L13 (1.3L) and L14 (1.4L) engines powered base cars in some markets; the L16 (1.6L SOHC, 96 hp) was the standard US-market engine and the most desirable variant. Body styles included 2-door sedan, 4-door sedan, and 5-door wagon. Federal emissions equipment was minimal in 1968-1969, increasing slightly for 1970. Driver-quality 1968-1970 cars represent the simplest and most refined original 510 ownership experience.

Mid 510 (1971-1972)

The 1971 model year brought the introduction of the 2-door coupe (called "Bluebird Coupe" in some markets) — a uniquely-styled fastback variant that became the most desirable 510 body style. Driver-quality 1971-1972 2-door coupes run $30,000-$50,000, with documented original-paint examples reaching $60,000+. Mechanically these cars are very similar to early 510s with slightly tightened emissions equipment.

Late 510 (1973)

The final 510 production year saw the introduction of the L18 engine (1.8L SOHC, 105 hp) replacing the L16. Federal emissions equipment increased significantly. The 1973 cars are mechanically less desirable than 1968-1972 cars but offer slightly more torque and remain affordable entry points into 510 ownership.

What to Look For (in person)

Structural Rust Inspection

510 rust is the structural killer for any car that lived in salt-belt or coastal climates. Pull the carpet at all four corners and inspect the floor pans. Pull the rear seat (it lifts out without tools) and inspect the rear shock towers from underneath the rear seat assembly. Inspect the front strut towers from inside the engine bay. Examine the rear wheel arches and rocker panels with strong light and a magnet. Perforation in any structural area means $5,000-$15,000 in proper professional repair.

Engine and Drivetrain Verification

The L-series engine number is stamped on a flat pad on the right side of the block (passenger side on LHD cars). The original L16 number prefix is L1610XXX or similar. Cross-reference against the dashboard data plate and the original color code. Mismatched engines (L18 in a 1968-1972 car, or non-original L-series swaps) reduce value 10-20% on driver-quality cars.

Body Style Verification

The 510 was offered in 2-door sedan, 4-door sedan, 5-door wagon, and (1971-1973 only) 2-door coupe configurations. The 2-door coupe with its unique fastback roofline is dramatically more valuable than the 2-door sedan. Verify body code from the chassis tag and visual inspection of the roofline. The 2-door sedan has a notchback roofline; the coupe has a fastback profile.

Pricing Tiers

Common Pitfalls

The biggest pitfall in 510 buying is paying premium money for a car with hidden structural rust. The unibody construction means rear shock tower rust isn't merely a cosmetic concern — it's structural and expensive to repair properly. Demand a thorough rear-shock-tower inspection by lifting the rear seat before purchase.

The second pitfall is BRE tribute cars sold as authentic team cars. Original BRE-team campaign cars from the 1971-1972 Trans-Am 2.5 Challenge are extraordinarily rare and well-documented in the BRE registry. Any car claiming team-car provenance without documentation traceable to the BRE registry should be assumed to be a tribute build until proven otherwise.

"Approached this with an engineer's eye, the 510 is one of the most fully-developed mass-market sport sedans of the late 1960s. Documented every nut and bolt during the restoration of my own 2-door coupe, I came to appreciate why these cars have such loyalty among vintage import enthusiasts — the chassis dynamics, the bulletproof L-series engine, and the genuine racing pedigree combine to support continued price strength. The car rewards smooth inputs and patient ownership. Spend the time on proper rust inspection before purchase rather than discovering structural issues during restoration."

— Emily Chen

Final Verdict

The 510 market rewards documentation, structural integrity, and patience. 2-door coupes (1971-1973 only) are the most desirable body style and have appreciated steadily for the past decade. 5-door wagons have appreciated faster than sedans since 2018 driven by surf-culture and adventure-vehicle demand. Driver-quality 4-door sedans remain the smart-money entry into 510 ownership at $15,000-$28,000.

For new buyers, start with a 1968-1972 4-door sedan with the L16 engine and the 4-speed manual. They're the most affordable proper 510, parts support is excellent through specialist suppliers, and the chassis dynamics are essentially identical to more desirable body styles. From there, the upgrade path is clear: 5-door wagon, then 1971-1973 2-door coupe, then BRE-tribute build, then original BRE-spec restoration. Patience and proper rust inspection beat impulse buys every time in this market.

What to Look For

Pre-Purchase Checklist

1. Verify chassis number against data plate and engine VIN tag
   Dashboard data plate, engine bay VIN tag, and engine block stamping must all agree.
2. Pull rear seat and inspect rear shock towers
   Most critical structural rust point on any 510. Invisible from outside the car. Mandatory inspection.
3. Inspect front strut towers from engine bay
   Remove strut covers if necessary. Rust here compromises front suspension geometry.
4. Pull carpet and check floor pans all corners
   Both driver and passenger sides, front and rear footwells. Floor pans rot from underneath.
5. Magnet test rear wheel arches and rockers
   Body filler is non-magnetic. Driver-quality cars universally have filler.
6. Verify body style code on chassis tag
   2-door coupe with fastback roofline is dramatically more valuable than 2-door sedan with notchback profile.
7. Check L-series engine number against original spec
   Stamped on flat pad on right side of block. Mismatched engines reduce value 10-20%.
8. Test Hitachi sidedraft carburetor synchronization
   Should idle smoothly at 700-800 rpm and pull cleanly through rev range.
9. Compression test all four cylinders
   Should read 145-170 PSI uniformly. L-series engines are durable but valve seat recession is known issue.
10. Verify BRE documentation if claimed
    Original BRE team cars traceable through BRE registry. Tribute builds reduce value vs authentic team cars.

Common Issues

Pricing Guide

Fun Facts