SOLD on May 26, 2026
Elite Dealer

1978 Ford F-350

Michigan

$35,995

1978 Ford F-350

Vehicle Details

Make

Ford

Model

F-350

Year

1978

Mileage

200,000 miles

Drivetrain

4WD

Fuel Type

Diesel

Engine

Cummins Diesel

Condition

Fair

Description

1978 Ford F350 cab and a 1999 dodge 2500 chassis (it does have the cummins) I body swapped this project it's a work in progress but my interest is leaving I want to buy a house and this is a fair bit of money tied up I've put a fass system on the truck to keep the vp44 pump in good shape the fuel regulator in the pump is bad so it bleeds off and takes a second to start after it's sat for too long it has Dakota digital gauges and vintage air both of which I cannot get to function properly it's a great truck it pulls hard and it makes a statement. Please Note The Following **Vehicle Location is at our clients home and Not In Cadillac, Michigan. **We do have a showroom with about 25 cars that is by appointment only **Please Call First and talk to one of our reps at 231-468-2809 EXT 1 **

Ford F-350 Buyer's Guide

Full guide
R
Robert Halloran
Classic Trucks
1953–1979
~4 min read
Updated Apr 2026
The Ford F-350 is the heavy-hauler of the classic truck world — a one-ton workhorse with a devoted following among farmers, builders, and collectors who need something that can actually work for a living.
This guide covers
10-point inspection checklist
Common issues & what to avoid
In-person inspection guide
Market pricing by year & condition
6 FAQs answered
History & fun facts

Ford F-350 Market Overview

Based on 6 Ford F-350 listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

6
Listed Now
$22,595
Avg. Asking Price
1924–1999
Year Range
Price Position on Our Site — Above Average
This car: $35,995
Low: $8,595 High: $44,995
Transmission Distribution
Automatic 50%
Manual 33%
Condition Distribution
Excellent 17%
Good 17%
Fair 17% ◄
Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 6 listings →

Ford F-350 Buyer's Guide

If you think the F-100 gets all the glory, you haven't spent time around F-350 people. This is a truck with a purpose — built to haul heavier loads, tow bigger trailers, and outlast just about everything else on four wheels. The F-350 has been quietly earning its keep since the early 1950s, and the classic examples from 1953 through 1979 represent some of the toughest, most honest machines ever to roll off a Detroit production line.

Robert Halloran here, and I'll be upfront with you: the F-350 isn't a show truck. It's a work truck that people happen to love restoring. The dual-rear-wheel variants especially have developed a cult following, and prices on clean examples have been climbing steadily. If you want a truck that was engineered without compromise, this is it.

What to Check Before Buying

Frame Inspection — Check full length of both frame rails for cracks, patches, or previous welds, especially at cab mounts.
Cab Corners & Floor — Inspect cab corners and floor pans for rust perforation — use a flashlight and probe suspect areas.
Front Suspension — Check Twin I-Beam for worn king pins, ball joints, and radius arm bushings — grab each front wheel and check for play.
Engine Cold Start — Start cold and watch for blue smoke (oil burning) or excessive blow-by at the oil filler.
Rear Axle (DRW) — On dually models, inspect inner rear wheel wells and check for axle seal leaks.
Transfer Case (4WD) — Engage 4WD high and low — both should engage smoothly without grinding or slipping.
Brake System — Test vacuum booster function — pump brakes several times with engine off, then start; pedal should drop slightly.
Bed & Tailgate — Check stake pockets, bed floor, and tailgate hardware for condition — work trucks often have significant bed wear.
Title & VIN — Verify VIN plate matches title — F-350s are sometimes misrepresented as lighter-duty F-100s or F-250s.
Documentation — Service records, build sheet, or window sticker add significant value and provenance for collector examples.

Common Issues

Cab corner and floor pan rust is nearly universal on anything north of the Mason-Dixon line. Cracked or repaired frame rails on trucks used for heavy towing. Worn king pins and radius arm bushings in the Twin I-Beam front suspension. FE engine oil consumption from worn valve stem seals or rings on high-mileage examples. Leaking rear axle seals on DRW configurations. Failing vacuum brake boosters on 1970s models. Difficult cold starts on the 360/390 FE engines if the carburetor hasn't been recently rebuilt.

What to Look For

Frame integrity is the top priority — inspect the full length of both rails for cracks, patches, or previous repairs, especially at the cab mounts and front spring perches. Check the cab corners and floor pans for rust, which is virtually universal on Rust Belt trucks. On DRW models, inspect the rear wheel wells and inner fender structure carefully. The Twin I-Beam suspension should be tight with no play at the king pins or ball joints. Verify the engine doesn't smoke excessively on cold start — FE engines are durable but tired ones will burn oil. Check the transfer case on 4WD models for smooth engagement.

Price Guide

Highboy F-350s (1967–1972) in driver condition: $12,000–$22,000. Clean, restored Highboys: $28,000–$45,000+. DRW "dually" examples command a 15–25% premium. Dentside trucks (1973–1979) are undervalued at $8,000–$18,000 for good drivers. Pre-1966 trucks vary widely by condition: $6,000–$20,000. 4WD trucks add $3,000–$8,000 over comparable 2WD examples. Budget $3,000–$6,000 for a thorough front-end rebuild if needed.

Did You Know?

The 1967–1972 F-350 Highboy earned its nickname because Ford's front suspension sat significantly higher than competitors' trucks — you had to step up to get in. When Ford lowered the front end in 1973, the pre-1973 trucks retroactively became "Highboys." The Dana 60 rear axle used in these trucks is still considered one of the strongest production axles ever made. Many original F-350 work trucks are still in daily use on ranches and farms — not as collectibles, but because they simply haven't worn out.

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