Elite Dealer

1966 Chevrolet C10

$54,995

1966 Chevrolet C10

Vehicle Details

Make

Chevrolet

Model

C10

Year

1966

Body Type

Other

Description

1966 Chevrolet C10 Stepside Pickup. The original 231 motor was replaced long ago and now is powered by a JEGS new 350 crate motor at 260 plus horsepower with a 750 cfm Edlebrock carburetor with high rise Edlebrock manifold. New paint in turquoise blue original Chevrolet color.

Grandpa's farm truck has original look with two tone paint, off white bumpers, top with matching wheels, including the California side mirrors. All wheels, tires, drum brakes, shocks are new with original standard steering. The swing down tail gate with hidden stainless steel spring loaded latches, front fenders, hood panels, door steel replacement panels, front bed panel, and cab quarter panels/corner body assemblies are all new steel.

Interior floor panels/support structure where needed were replaced with OEM metal. This is a rust free truck garaged since restored in 2015. When truck was painted it was done in pieces, totally disassembled so that paint wraps panels.

Wood bed is custom, includes 1/2 inch treated plywood underlayment on rust oleum coated frame, 1/8' oak plywood, finished with 1/2' oak boards. Finished by hand in oak or mahogany stain installed in alternating colors, hand finished with teak oil. New windshield, original side glass, replaced both window lifts with new including new door hardware as OEM with new felts and window gaskets,.

Utility box is made from original bed oak from 1966. Interior is off white which matches exterior, front seat finished in matching turquoise floor carpeting. New Flowmaster style side exhaust, sweet thrush sounds.

Retro sound system to provide the original look with modern sound. Much more... Please Note The Following **Vehicle Location is at our clients home and Not In Cadillac, Michigan. **We do have a showroom with about 25 cars that is by appointment only **Please Call First and talk to one of our reps at 231-468-2809 EXT 1 **

Classic Chevrolet C10 Buyer's Guide

Full guide
R
Robert Halloran
Classic Trucks
1960–1987
~4 min read
Updated Apr 2026
Complete buying guide for classic Chevrolet C10 pickups (1960-1987). Generation breakdown, frame inspection essentials, common issues by year, restomod vs original valuation, and current market prices.
This guide covers
βœ“ 10-point inspection checklist
βœ“ Common issues & what to avoid
βœ“ In-person inspection guide
βœ“ Market pricing by year & condition
βœ“ 5 FAQs answered
βœ“ History & fun facts

Chevrolet C10 Market Overview

Based on 326 Chevrolet C10 listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

326
Listed Now
$30,376
Avg. Asking Price
1937–1995
Year Range
Price Position on Our Site β€” Above Average
This car: $54,995
Low: $4,500 High: $114,995
Transmission Distribution
Automatic 68%
Manual 21%
Condition Distribution
Excellent 7%
Good 12%
Fair 3%
Poor 0%
Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 326 listings →
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What is this car worth?

Check sold prices for the 1966 Chevrolet C10

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Classic Chevrolet C10 Buyer's Guide

The Chevrolet C10 is the most popular classic American truck on the road today, and that popularity has driven values up considerably over the last decade. Whether you're after a clean 1967-1972 short-bed Fleetside or a square-body restomod, this guide will help you spot the good, the bad, and the cleverly disguised.

What to Check Before Buying

Inspect frame rails under cab β€” Use flashlight and screwdriver. Stab gently at boxed sections. Solid metal resists; rotted metal flakes.
Pull floor mats and check floor pans β€” Both driver and passenger sides. Look for filler over rust holes β€” common shortcut by previous owners.
Examine cab corner rust β€” Visible from inside through kick panels. Rust here often migrates upward into the door hinge area.
Look at cowl drain area β€” Where windshield meets firewall. Plugged drains rot the cowl from inside out. Big repair if rotten.
Lift bed if possible β€” Inspect bed floor, bed sides, and bed support crossmembers. New paint hides damage; lift it up.
Check engine block stamps and casting numbers β€” Verify if the engine claimed (350, 396, 454) matches what's actually installed. Casting numbers identify year and displacement.
Verify transmission and rear axle β€” Stamps and tags identify original equipment. Important for documented original-condition claims.
Test all gauges and electrical β€” Wire gauge issues are common. Verify oil pressure, temperature, fuel level, alternator. Check headlights, marker lights, interior lights.
Drive on highway and on backroads β€” Listen for rear differential whine, transmission slip on shifts, brake pulsation, steering wander. Drive at least 30 minutes.
Document with photos before purchase β€” Photo every panel, frame rail, engine bay, undercarriage, and tag/stamp. Build the case before you wire money.

Common Issues

C10 trucks rust in predictable places. Lower cab corners, behind the rear wheels, the cab mount points to the frame, and the bed floor are all classic rust zones. The cab corner rust often hides behind cosmetic patches β€” always remove the kick panels and look up into the corner from underneath. Frame rust is the silent killer. The frame rails directly under the cab can rot from the inside out, especially on trucks that lived in salt-belt states. Check the boxed frame sections with a hammer or screwdriver β€” solid steel rings, rotten metal flakes. Mechanically, C10s are dead-simple β€” that's part of their appeal. The 250 inline-six, the 305 small block, and the 350 small block are all bulletproof. The Saginaw and Muncie manuals and the TH350/TH400 automatics are equally robust. The leaks and tired components on most surviving trucks are easy fixes β€” but compounded leaks can mean a tired engine that needs a refresh.

What to Look For

Two things matter most when shopping a C10: the frame and the cab. Everything else is replaceable. The frame should be solid, especially through the section directly under the cab and at the cab mount points. A flashlight under the truck is mandatory. Don't trust shiny paint on the frame β€” fresh paint can hide flake rust. The cab is the second non-negotiable. Cab corners can be replaced (they're a reproduction part you can buy for $200), but a totally rusted cab base is a job that justifies finding a different truck. Lift the floor mat, pull the kick panels, and look at the floor pans. Patch panels welded sloppily over rotten metal is a 'restoration' that's actually a re-rotting in slow motion. For square-body C10s (1973-1987), look closely at the cowl seam where the windshield base meets the firewall. Water collects there and rots both downward into the cab and forward into the firewall. This is one of the more expensive repairs on this generation.

Price Guide

C10 prices have moved dramatically since 2018. A driver-quality 1967-1972 short-bed Fleetside small-block runs $28,000-$48,000 today, with show-quality examples hitting $60,000-$95,000. Long-bed Fleetside trucks are $8,000-$15,000 less than equivalent short-beds β€” they're slower to appreciate but offer the most truck for the money. Square-body C10s (1973-1987) have been the breakout segment of the last five years. A clean 1981-1987 short-bed Silverado runs $22,000-$45,000, with restomods (LS-swapped, modern wheels, air ride) commanding $50,000-$95,000. Step-side beds are slightly less popular than Fleetsides but uniquely characterful. Project trucks (running but rough) start around $8,000-$15,000. Stripped frame-up restoration candidates can be had for $3,500-$7,000, but be honest about what the restoration will cost β€” $30,000-$60,000 is realistic before you're done with paint and interior.

Did You Know?

The 1967 C10 introduced the curved windshield that became the signature design element of the second-generation truck. Before 1967, all GM trucks had flat glass. The 'short-bed' versus 'long-bed' distinction comes down to wheelbase: 115 inches for short-beds, 127 inches for long-beds. The short-bed Fleetside is the most desirable configuration in today's collector market by a wide margin. The term 'square-body' for the 1973-1987 generation didn't exist when the trucks were new β€” it's a nickname adopted by enthusiasts in the 2000s and 2010s when this generation entered the collector market.

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